Spcycle R088

The frame is commonly purchased through Aliexpress or by contacting the seller directly via email. Users report good communication and after-sales service through these channels. Aliexpress links are often shared in forums for convenience.

SPCycle does not sell complete bikes. However, Tantan or Seraph bikes X68 offer complete bikes with the same frame geometry.

The total build cost approximately $2600 USD without pedals and chainrings. The frame was purchased from AliExpress SPCycle store during a sale with discount codes and credit card points.

I chose a 56cm frame. I am 183cm tall with an inseam of 88.5cm.

Yes, the frame supports mechanical groupsets via a braze-on front derailleur mount and internal routing. Builders note cable routing is challenging, especially with integrated handlebars, due to tight spaces around the bottom bracket and handling multiple cables. Recommendations include routing cables before installing the bottom bracket and using separate stems/bars for easier builds.

The frame uses a BSA threaded bottom bracket. Common choices include Shimano Ultegra BBR60 for reliability, ZTTO ceramic for budget options, or SRAM DUB with appropriate adapters. Builders recommend ensuring proper spindle length and using spacers as needed to avoid chainstay interference.

Users report that Continental GP5000 tires in 30mm and 32mm widths fit well, with some suggesting 34mm may also be possible. Mixing tire sizes (e.g., 28mm front and 30mm rear) is feasible and unlikely to noticeably affect handling. Real-world testing indicates the frame can handle up to 34mm tires, though 35mm may be tight. For gravel tires, the frame is not suitable; maximum comfortable width is 34mm.

Several integrated handlebars have been used successfully: LightCarbon HBR17 (may be out of stock), Kocevlo (some find flexible), and others from Aliexpress (e.g., item 1005006309729622, 1005006286213042). Some users recommend buying the frame without handlebar, using a temporary stem/bar for bike fitting, then selecting the correct integrated bar. The FSA SMR stem with ACR headset adapter is also a popular non-integrated option for improved stiffness. For separate cockpits like the Quick ZEPHYR SL, you may need a full FSA ACR headset adapter.

Yes, they are riser bars. You can find them on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKcPIqX

The geometry is identical to the Specialized Tarmac SL7/SL8, providing a proven and comfortable ride.

Many builders report the front derailleur mount is misaligned, causing poor shifting or chain drops. Solutions include shimming with materials like credit card pieces, rubber strips, or PPF film behind the mount to correct the angle. Some have carefully bent the mount or used washers. One user also sanded the rivnuts and machined the mount for a flush fit.

Headset play is a frequent issue, often due to the stock expander plug being too short, incorrect C-ring height, or improper bearing preload. Solutions include replacing the expander plug with a longer one (e.g., Cane Creek Ancora or Deda 70mm), sanding down the C-ring, using microspacers, or ensuring the fork steerer is cut to the correct length.

The seat tube can be tight for batteries. For Di2, some sand the internal ridge or use zip ties to create a pull tab. For LTwoo, the battery holder often fits snugly; use ribbon string to retrieve it, and cutting the seatpost may be necessary on smaller frames.

The stock seatpost clamp can become stuck, making adjustments difficult. Users report needing to tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it even after unscrewing the bolt. Applying assembly paste (e.g., Dynamic Assembly Paste Pro) inside the clamping area can help prevent sticking, but some prefer aftermarket seatposts with different clamp systems for easier adjustments. Additionally, even with the 0mm offset seatpost, the wedges may remain stuck after fully unscrewing, requiring forceful blows to separate.

I think it was an 80mm one from AliExpress, the longest option available.

No, it was the easiest routing I've ever had on bars and frame. The hoses found their way out themselves, and I didn't even need my Park Tool routing kit. The spacers also make height adjustment easy.

Some users report slight front wheel 'jumping' during hard braking, which may be due to new brake pads or discs needing bedding-in, rather than headset issues. To check, ensure no headset play by bouncing the bike while holding the front brake, and test for movement with both brakes applied while stationary. If headset is tight, the jumping should diminish with use.

A rhythmic knocking sound while seated and pedaling can be caused by several factors: drive-side crank arm rubbing against the front derailleur, crankset axle play, loose thru-axles, the Di2 or LTwoo battery knocking in the seat tube, or the seatpost clamp. Solutions include checking and tightening crankset components, applying grease or carbon paste to the seatpost clamp, and securing the battery. The sound often disappears when standing due to reduced frame flex.

Creaking noises when pedaling at high power (300+ W) can often be resolved by replacing the bottom bracket, greasing and torquing chainring bolts, or checking the small bolt on the rear dropout (which can come loose).

Nothing concerning. I bought a massive expander plug just in case.

The actual weight is 6.7 kg (14.76 lbs) without pedals and chainrings, and 6.82 kg with bar tape and Wahoo mount added. The initial post had a typo of 16.7 kg.

The owner reports less flex than described in GCN video, attributing much of that to tire, stem, and steerer tube. The flex is welcome as passive suspension for endurance rides and does not feel unstable at any speed.

The frame is generally solid with clean threads and easy assembly. The only issue reported was the front derailleur mount, which required sanding the rivnuts and machining the mount for a flush fit. Overall, QC is considered good.

The custom paint cost an extra $100 USD for a 3-colour gloss finish. I used the Elves website to model the design, and Spcycle executed it about 90% accurately. The process was easy: I paid for the frame, discussed the design, then paid the extra amount.