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I have this on my ebike mtb/commuter. It's been great, no issues so far in six months or so since install. I've taken it down a few advanced trails, no big jumps or drops, just a few bits of chunk and hard braking on steep slopes, nothing broke. I bought four carbon forks from Ali last year and it has the best design and finish. Trace Velo vouched for OG-Evkin which was what turned me on to them, he's riding one of the their carbon frames.

In anticipation of a longer distance bikepacking trip, that I just completed, In January I purchased a 10-52T version of the ZTTO Ultralight MS Cassette. I have been running the ZTTO 10-50 version for several years without any problems. I installed the brand new 10-52 cassette on my bikepacker about 3 weeks ago, made adjustments, and believed I was good to go for my ride. 1-day after arriving home, I stripped the bike apart to clean and inspect everything. While cleaning the cassette, (Now, with only 800 miles on it), I noticed that 4 of the teeth on the lowest "52 tooth" aluminum cog were bent and mangled. All 4 of these teeth are in areas where ZTTO has machined what appears to be shift ramps to help the chain be driven up onto the cog. 2 of the teeth have cracks below the tooth where the ramp machining has made the cog very thin below the tooth. Therefore I took measurements: The 52 tooth cog is between 2,1 and 2.18mm thick. Where the teeth are all failing, and the ramps cut into the cog are nominally .71mm thick. This is 33% of the metal left below to the tooth. This is a bad/weak area design!!! FYI - The rest of the cassette still looks brand new! In comparison, My ZTTO 50 tooth cogs on my other cassettes all have ramps that leave 50% of the material below by the teeth with ramps. On this 52 tooth cog, this appears to be a bad design to remove so much material below a key tooth used to help lift the chain onto the cog! (See pics.) yesterday, I wrote the store I purchased the cassette from explaining the problem. They reply was. - "friend the biggest cog is aluminum alloy" This morning, I directly wrote ZTTO explaining the problem and failure. I will share what they write back.

If I know i'm going to be all alone or out in the dark for hours; 5 led, 8000mah light bar - Its not 5200lm, but its nearly on par with big outbound lights at 10% of the price. I use this light bar for the weekly night time MTB group rides mostly, but it works great on the yearly night time gravel race i attend as well. Low beam is slightly brighter than my trustfire light and it will run most of the night on that, I just flip it between high and low depending on group position/traffic on gravel/road. I actually have 3 of these, 2 of the biggest and one of the smallest.

I have been using this light for over a year now. I love it! It is very bright when in it brightest mode, and it has 2 different light frequencies, a more yellow color and white light. On my has bike camping trip, I thought I would be smart and only bring this headlight. I tried using it in my tent and it was way to bright as a nightlight. (LOL)

Die Spedaos (vormals Sroad) funktionieren bei einigen hier sehr gut. Meine eine, die noch im Betrieb ist, ist jetzt 8000km gelaufen. Die Beschichtung ist selbstverständlich an den Kontaktstellen zur Kette nicht mehr wie neu. Aber noch geht alles gut, bin jetzt bei Kette #2 mit der Kassette. Bin gespannt ob Kette 3 dann auch noch gut geht. Ich hatte insgesamt 3 Kassetten: Die zweite ist wegen Umbau auf 12sp gerade im Lager, lief aber bestimmt auch 5000km unproblematisch bei jedem Mistwetter. Die dritte hatte ich samt Rad verkauft und keine Beschwerden mitbekommen.

Ich habe mir bei Ali dieses Langarmtrikot in coral gekauft und bin von der Qualität positiv überrascht. Das ist der erste Kauf von Bekleidung bei Ali. Ich sehe keinerlei Unterschiede zu meinen anderen Trikots von Castelli, Q36.5 und Gobik. Größenangabe von Ali passt auch (EU Größe eine Nummer größer als asiatische Größe)

I have 4,500km on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34 and it is faultless so far.

I first level the bike by putting it on the turbo and using a level across both axles. I then set a laser level up, ensuring it's square to the bike by making sure bb centre and pedal centres top and bottom all line up. Then use a cheap Ali express seat height measuring tool to measure from that to a consistent reference point. I've found this to be infinitely more repeatable than using a plumb line, which could be poor technique but none of my bikes have a clean line down from any part of the saddle past the bb, then you have variation of picking centre point etc.

I bought this steel cassette 2x11 from AliExpress and it lasted around 1500 km before it started skipping on the third cog. I took very good care of it and cleaned it almost after every long training ride. To be fair, I had no issues with shifting performance at all, and personally the slightly louder noise compared to Shimano didn't bother me. But honestly, I wouldn't recommend wasting your money on it. And this is coming from a rider averaging around 190W during training rides, so I can only imagine how long it would last for stronger riders putting down bigger power.

I have this one in Asian Sizes-L. 188cm and 77kg. Love it. Great race cut fit and has perforated back so it breaths a bit and its not just a plastic sack. Packs real small and the dual zipper is an AMAZING idea for these.

I've put nearly 3k km on the road and the same again on the turbo with my weight between 120kg and 100kg on one of these and it's still intact and comfortable. Ryet RT03 3d printed

Second followup: I think I put about 3000 more miles on the shoes, did a lot of virtual riding over the past winter. The shoes are still doing great. My only issue is that the plastic coating on the ATOP closure wire was wearing off the top wire where it entered the ratchet (both shoes). The plastic would get jammed in the ratchet system and sometimes wouldn't open without a lot of force. I ended up cutting the plastic off for that section and it has been fine since. I did order a replacement set of wires in case they fray or break. I may end up buying a spare ratchet as well. The parts are pretty inexpensive. So still factoring those in you really can't beat the price.

This one is actually a jersey I ride quite a lot. It fits fine, fabric is quite ok and it drapes well. Pockets are good and don’t sag. Arms are a bit short again (I’m also very tall) but overall quite nice. Just not short sleeve which I am looking for as temperatures are creeping up!

Hi guys thought I'd post my experience with BIKEDOC DX28 Carbon Disc Wheel trading as Synergy (Xiamen) Import and Export Co as there are not many modern disc wheel designs for rim brake bikes around. I contacted a few different manufacturers/sellers and settled on BIKEDOC as they have some good reviews and designs. The lady I dealt with was Menly who was very helpful and was able to provide specs close to what I requested. I did want their FB01 31mm toroidal shape which was my request but this could only be built as disc brake only so I settled on the DX28 which is rim brake compatible. So full specs as follows: Depth Solid disc wheel toroidal design Rim width outer 28mm Internal 22mm Widest point 29 mm (toroid). Engraved brake track Specified weight ~1050g Measured weight 1023g I chose their standard hub which spins fine and still smooth. Finish is very nice in the matt UD and there are also nice seals on the hub end caps which I know some hubs don't have. I haven't noticed any issues with runout and everything still appears very true. The wheel seems solid/stiff and the ratchet is loud! So far I've ridden 2 x 90k tt, 1 x 80k tt, 40km TT plus 80km or so warmup and the wheel has held up well and still like new. Feels very fast with the conti GP5000 S TR and TT TR 28c tire set up as tubeless and running ~67psi, S TR measures ~30mm and TT TR measures ~31mm. So arguably the S TR is a little more aero on this wheel. I was first in my age group off the bike in IM70.3 Melbourne on a windy course so the wheel is definitely fast as I am no power house on the bike. If I change up to a disc brake TT bike I will be definitely contacting them again as these wheels are great value and fit for purpose. I definitely recommend you contact them if you are on a budget.

I've been running one of these for a couple of months. It's well made and works well but it's not 24g. Mine saved me 19g compared to an RD-R8150 rear derailleur cage. If you can find one you'll save more by fitting a 2nd hand Dura Ace cage.